4.27.2004
PARADISE FOUND
We were tossed around all night -- sweating bullets (windows closed, no AC) on the sauna of a bus ride (8 hours) to Banaue (Philippines) from Bagio. Halfway point we figured out how to open the windows, then slept a little, and in our exhaustion resigned ourselves to extreme discomfort and the probability of being thrown off into a ravine on a curve. Miraculously, we arrived safely through the drizzle to our destination at 5:30 am.
As we were gathering our belongings, a man approached Erik and asked if we had a place to stay. After being given a HUGE runaround by a horse and carriage driver in Manila, I was wary (he caused a huge scene, insisting on $50US dollar payment for 2 hours after telling us the rate was P200/hour ($4)). Erik pleaded, thought he seemed trustworthy, so against my better judgement we got into a tricycle with Tony to check out the place.
The "tricycle" was a small motorcycle fitted with a lightweight metal sidecar -- open on either side. Erik and I squeezed side-by-side into the car and propped our luggage on top while Tony climbed onto the back of the motorcycle. I thought the contraption was sure to collapse. As we ascended the mountain, the 5,000 foot high peaks emerged from the high clouds and fog, pinkening in the sunrise, looking impossibly high.
After about 20 minutes of creaking and groaning and careening along, we arrived at the viewpoint, Tony's house perched somewhere below. He paid the driver, and we descended (luggage in hand) 250 feet of gravity-defying concrete stairs. We met Tony's wife and 2 of his 8 children, and I immediately knew this would be a fine place to stay. His wife went in to prepare our room, and left us to enjoy the view while we waited.
The house looked over steep mountainsides carved into giant green steps -- 3,000 year old rice terraces rising in the mist, some passed down to Tony from his Ifugao anscestors. Jungle valley below, and views of town at the end. This place was so perfect, so beautiful, I was beginning to think we HAD died on the bus after all.
Tony had been referring to his American friend back at the bus stop, and now had time to flush out the story. Apparently he had been chosen by American author and Berkely taxi-driver Brad Newsham to receive a free trip across America a few years back. Tony had never been farther than Manila, and then only to receive medical treatment. Tony and Brad set out: "in a borrowed taxicab from the California redwoods to the New York Harbor - at trip's end the cab meter, which we kept running just for fun, read $20,644.90."
Brad's trip around the world in search of the right candidate would be the subject of his second book. You can see pictures of Banaue, and read about the book or dispatches from their trip at www.bradnewsham.com.
We ended up staying 2 days with Tony and his family who treated us with astonishing graciousness and generosity. Erik made good friends with Bradley, their 2-year-old son (a curious and devilish boy, he pulls his sisters' hair and even spit on the Mayor). Tony's wife Rita was a terrific cook, and even had coffee and pancakes ready for us in the morning. Their 16-year old son, Franz, was our unofficial tour guide. The first day he took us via tricycle 45 minutes to the "crossroads" where we made the 2-hour hike into the wonderfully remote village of Batad. We wandered through the thatched huts, amongst chickens and pigs, on ancient stone walls between rice terraces, and down to a gorgeous 21-meter high waterfall where we swam.
The next day Franz took us on a walk in his own village, over the rice terraces to the natural pools -- a spring fed stream with a water-carved rock water slide. We slid while being watched by village boys -- eager to swim, but unwilling to do so with me there. Then, we followed Franz down the valley and into town where Tony was waiting for help with the internet.
After a delicious lunch back at the house, we were off on another all-night bus journey (air conditioned!) to Manila, then off to Hong Kong the next morning.
+ + + + + +
HONG KONG
We arrived in the city with no guidebook, no map, just the name and number of one hostel: Rent-a room in Kowloon. Luckily for us, this was probably the best city in the world to arrive in unprepared. After going through customs and passing the SARS temperature check, we were greeted by a smiling information clerk who gave us maps, 3 city guides, detailed directions to the hostel, and pointed us to the free telephones to reserve our room.
Hong Kong is the anti-Manila: futuristic, high-tech, immaculate (we even saw signs warning of a $1,500 fine for spitting). They even have outdoor escalators so you won't get tired shopping in the hilly secion of town. It's a city of high-rises and neon -- mile after glorious mile of skyline and shopping malls. This is a shopper's paradise: no taxes and super-low prices. We wandered through night markets full of jade, knock-off watches and pirated DVDs. During the day we visited goldfish row (shop after shop of brilliant fish in plastic bags) and the Women's market. I got a whole new wardrobe for $50.
+ + + + + +
KUALA LUMPUR
I have to admit I don't love KL. We're in a dingy hostel just north of Chinatown, and I'm tired. 4 countries in 10 days. Whew. We're recovering from colds, probably from the 2 all-night bus trips right in a row. Because I admitted to having a cough, they gave me a SARS mask to wear on my way out of Hong Kong.
The islamic culture is interesting, and we saw monkeys in a city park. That was cool. Tomorrow we'll visit Batu caves and then take the night train to Kota Baru on the West Coast at the Thai border. Fron there we'll go to the Pehrentian Islands.
We were tossed around all night -- sweating bullets (windows closed, no AC) on the sauna of a bus ride (8 hours) to Banaue (Philippines) from Bagio. Halfway point we figured out how to open the windows, then slept a little, and in our exhaustion resigned ourselves to extreme discomfort and the probability of being thrown off into a ravine on a curve. Miraculously, we arrived safely through the drizzle to our destination at 5:30 am.
As we were gathering our belongings, a man approached Erik and asked if we had a place to stay. After being given a HUGE runaround by a horse and carriage driver in Manila, I was wary (he caused a huge scene, insisting on $50US dollar payment for 2 hours after telling us the rate was P200/hour ($4)). Erik pleaded, thought he seemed trustworthy, so against my better judgement we got into a tricycle with Tony to check out the place.
The "tricycle" was a small motorcycle fitted with a lightweight metal sidecar -- open on either side. Erik and I squeezed side-by-side into the car and propped our luggage on top while Tony climbed onto the back of the motorcycle. I thought the contraption was sure to collapse. As we ascended the mountain, the 5,000 foot high peaks emerged from the high clouds and fog, pinkening in the sunrise, looking impossibly high.
After about 20 minutes of creaking and groaning and careening along, we arrived at the viewpoint, Tony's house perched somewhere below. He paid the driver, and we descended (luggage in hand) 250 feet of gravity-defying concrete stairs. We met Tony's wife and 2 of his 8 children, and I immediately knew this would be a fine place to stay. His wife went in to prepare our room, and left us to enjoy the view while we waited.
The house looked over steep mountainsides carved into giant green steps -- 3,000 year old rice terraces rising in the mist, some passed down to Tony from his Ifugao anscestors. Jungle valley below, and views of town at the end. This place was so perfect, so beautiful, I was beginning to think we HAD died on the bus after all.
Tony had been referring to his American friend back at the bus stop, and now had time to flush out the story. Apparently he had been chosen by American author and Berkely taxi-driver Brad Newsham to receive a free trip across America a few years back. Tony had never been farther than Manila, and then only to receive medical treatment. Tony and Brad set out: "in a borrowed taxicab from the California redwoods to the New York Harbor - at trip's end the cab meter, which we kept running just for fun, read $20,644.90."
Brad's trip around the world in search of the right candidate would be the subject of his second book. You can see pictures of Banaue, and read about the book or dispatches from their trip at www.bradnewsham.com.
We ended up staying 2 days with Tony and his family who treated us with astonishing graciousness and generosity. Erik made good friends with Bradley, their 2-year-old son (a curious and devilish boy, he pulls his sisters' hair and even spit on the Mayor). Tony's wife Rita was a terrific cook, and even had coffee and pancakes ready for us in the morning. Their 16-year old son, Franz, was our unofficial tour guide. The first day he took us via tricycle 45 minutes to the "crossroads" where we made the 2-hour hike into the wonderfully remote village of Batad. We wandered through the thatched huts, amongst chickens and pigs, on ancient stone walls between rice terraces, and down to a gorgeous 21-meter high waterfall where we swam.
The next day Franz took us on a walk in his own village, over the rice terraces to the natural pools -- a spring fed stream with a water-carved rock water slide. We slid while being watched by village boys -- eager to swim, but unwilling to do so with me there. Then, we followed Franz down the valley and into town where Tony was waiting for help with the internet.
After a delicious lunch back at the house, we were off on another all-night bus journey (air conditioned!) to Manila, then off to Hong Kong the next morning.
+ + + + + +
HONG KONG
We arrived in the city with no guidebook, no map, just the name and number of one hostel: Rent-a room in Kowloon. Luckily for us, this was probably the best city in the world to arrive in unprepared. After going through customs and passing the SARS temperature check, we were greeted by a smiling information clerk who gave us maps, 3 city guides, detailed directions to the hostel, and pointed us to the free telephones to reserve our room.
Hong Kong is the anti-Manila: futuristic, high-tech, immaculate (we even saw signs warning of a $1,500 fine for spitting). They even have outdoor escalators so you won't get tired shopping in the hilly secion of town. It's a city of high-rises and neon -- mile after glorious mile of skyline and shopping malls. This is a shopper's paradise: no taxes and super-low prices. We wandered through night markets full of jade, knock-off watches and pirated DVDs. During the day we visited goldfish row (shop after shop of brilliant fish in plastic bags) and the Women's market. I got a whole new wardrobe for $50.
+ + + + + +
KUALA LUMPUR
I have to admit I don't love KL. We're in a dingy hostel just north of Chinatown, and I'm tired. 4 countries in 10 days. Whew. We're recovering from colds, probably from the 2 all-night bus trips right in a row. Because I admitted to having a cough, they gave me a SARS mask to wear on my way out of Hong Kong.
The islamic culture is interesting, and we saw monkeys in a city park. That was cool. Tomorrow we'll visit Batu caves and then take the night train to Kota Baru on the West Coast at the Thai border. Fron there we'll go to the Pehrentian Islands.
4.24.2004
READING LIST
Because I enjoyed reading Katie's maternity leave reading list, I thought I'd post my own travel reading list. If you want to see hers, click on the Katie Bowler link at right.
"A Book of Bees" Sue Hubbell :: A delightful peek into the seasons of a beekeeper's life. A Christmas present from Erik (I eventually want to keep bees).
"New Yorker Magazine" March 2004 issue :: Making Movies. Particularly insightful interview with Quentin Tarantino about "Kill Bill". I liked the movie better after reading this.
"Miss Wyoming" Douglas Coupland :: From the author of "Generation X", a terrific novel (love story) that speaks to my generation with pop culture references and mixed emotions.
"The Passion" Jeanette Winterson :: Not my favorite one of her novels (too much passion, practically bleeding), but I keep thinking about one concept she imparts -- the idea (and necessity) of basking. I've been doing a lot of it on this trip.
"Who Magazine" Various issues :: an Aussie star tabliod. Mostly news about American stars. Great fun.
"Cosmo" and "Cleo" Magazines :: Various issues :: Aussie glamour rags. Not so great.
"No Logo" Naomi Klein :: Everyone in the world should read this book. Interesting history of branding and its importance in the business world, (some of the) effects of globalism (like job flight and sweatshops), and a look at the subsequent rise of anti-corporate attitudes and a resurgent demand for unbranded public space. Long but extremely well-written and documented.
(currently) "The Shipping News" Annie Proulx :: Delightful character-driven fiction. I'm lost in Newfoundland even though my body is in Hong Kong.
Because I enjoyed reading Katie's maternity leave reading list, I thought I'd post my own travel reading list. If you want to see hers, click on the Katie Bowler link at right.
"A Book of Bees" Sue Hubbell :: A delightful peek into the seasons of a beekeeper's life. A Christmas present from Erik (I eventually want to keep bees).
"New Yorker Magazine" March 2004 issue :: Making Movies. Particularly insightful interview with Quentin Tarantino about "Kill Bill". I liked the movie better after reading this.
"Miss Wyoming" Douglas Coupland :: From the author of "Generation X", a terrific novel (love story) that speaks to my generation with pop culture references and mixed emotions.
"The Passion" Jeanette Winterson :: Not my favorite one of her novels (too much passion, practically bleeding), but I keep thinking about one concept she imparts -- the idea (and necessity) of basking. I've been doing a lot of it on this trip.
"Who Magazine" Various issues :: an Aussie star tabliod. Mostly news about American stars. Great fun.
"Cosmo" and "Cleo" Magazines :: Various issues :: Aussie glamour rags. Not so great.
"No Logo" Naomi Klein :: Everyone in the world should read this book. Interesting history of branding and its importance in the business world, (some of the) effects of globalism (like job flight and sweatshops), and a look at the subsequent rise of anti-corporate attitudes and a resurgent demand for unbranded public space. Long but extremely well-written and documented.
(currently) "The Shipping News" Annie Proulx :: Delightful character-driven fiction. I'm lost in Newfoundland even though my body is in Hong Kong.
4.23.2004
HOW TO IMAGINE A JEEPNEY
1. Cut a regular Jeep 4x4 in half, then lengthen it 3-4 times
2. Remove all the windows (except the windshield), and the back door
3. Line the interior with bench seating, and add a luggage rack on top (for bags or people)
4. Paint neon or rainbow racing stripes at odd angles -- covering as much surface area as possible
5. Add illustrations: mickey mouse, anime, your favorite product logo, animal or political figure
6. Hand-paint the destinations along the side, along with random descriptions such as "Supra Classic", "DPS - 738" or "Nemar Special"
7. Detail with polished chrome around the windows and fenders (and anywhere else you'd like)
8. Finish her off with a suitable name on a placard above the windshield (suggestions below)
Pure Country
Big Boss
F-15 Airpower
Psalm 91
Life Must Go On
Mannyboy 2
Retired Playboy
Oriental Minister
Don Jerome
Gift of Wisdom
Gift of God
Gemini
Love J
No Turning Back
MANILA ON A SATURDAY NIGHT
"Duff-duff-duff" (electronic music) us at a table on the street (fashionable area of town) with 50 cent beers. Young men in (American) gang styles -- basketball shirts and baseball caps (the right logos) bought a snake from a vendor. Separated from it's fellow reptile friends, new home a cardboard box, now slithering amonst beer bottles. Young stylish Manilites walk by -- girls hand in hand; boys -- one arm on one shoulder. Friends.
Vendors roll by, offer hot peanuts from smoking metal buckets on wheels. Ice cream offered with the sentiment, "In God We Trust." Beggars, children, attach to us like ticks, walk along side and stare to wear our skins thin. Erik gets up, gives a few pesos to a woman and naked child.
Walking toward the river, we pass bars like Bedrock, with girls dressed in Hannah Barbara leopard-print. Smile and pose for Erik's picture. Swarms of people walking in the street amidst traffic and tables with customers -- no sidewalks. Streets are lit with candy-colored lights. Poles like neon lollipops.
We reach the river -- it smells a lot like a toilet. the polloution congregates in a visible strip of styrofoam and sludge about 2 meters from shore. Midget cowboy waiters serve beers at riverside cafes. Waves splash up onto the boardwalk, and onto tables and people eating dinner. How can these people pretend to have a romantic moment next to this cess pool? (we end up doing the same the next day).
1. Cut a regular Jeep 4x4 in half, then lengthen it 3-4 times
2. Remove all the windows (except the windshield), and the back door
3. Line the interior with bench seating, and add a luggage rack on top (for bags or people)
4. Paint neon or rainbow racing stripes at odd angles -- covering as much surface area as possible
5. Add illustrations: mickey mouse, anime, your favorite product logo, animal or political figure
6. Hand-paint the destinations along the side, along with random descriptions such as "Supra Classic", "DPS - 738" or "Nemar Special"
7. Detail with polished chrome around the windows and fenders (and anywhere else you'd like)
8. Finish her off with a suitable name on a placard above the windshield (suggestions below)
Pure Country
Big Boss
F-15 Airpower
Psalm 91
Life Must Go On
Mannyboy 2
Retired Playboy
Oriental Minister
Don Jerome
Gift of Wisdom
Gift of God
Gemini
Love J
No Turning Back
MANILA ON A SATURDAY NIGHT
"Duff-duff-duff" (electronic music) us at a table on the street (fashionable area of town) with 50 cent beers. Young men in (American) gang styles -- basketball shirts and baseball caps (the right logos) bought a snake from a vendor. Separated from it's fellow reptile friends, new home a cardboard box, now slithering amonst beer bottles. Young stylish Manilites walk by -- girls hand in hand; boys -- one arm on one shoulder. Friends.
Vendors roll by, offer hot peanuts from smoking metal buckets on wheels. Ice cream offered with the sentiment, "In God We Trust." Beggars, children, attach to us like ticks, walk along side and stare to wear our skins thin. Erik gets up, gives a few pesos to a woman and naked child.
Walking toward the river, we pass bars like Bedrock, with girls dressed in Hannah Barbara leopard-print. Smile and pose for Erik's picture. Swarms of people walking in the street amidst traffic and tables with customers -- no sidewalks. Streets are lit with candy-colored lights. Poles like neon lollipops.
We reach the river -- it smells a lot like a toilet. the polloution congregates in a visible strip of styrofoam and sludge about 2 meters from shore. Midget cowboy waiters serve beers at riverside cafes. Waves splash up onto the boardwalk, and onto tables and people eating dinner. How can these people pretend to have a romantic moment next to this cess pool? (we end up doing the same the next day).
4.15.2004
DEADLY SPIDERS, KILLER SHARKS, & POISONOUS SNAKES
Well, our time in the land down under is up. We've been making our way up the East Coast of Australia, hiking and snorkeling, boogey boarding and surfing without incident. Australia has 7 of the world's 9 deadliest spiders, myriad poisonous snakes, and killer jellyfish as well. Quite a contrast to New Zealand, where the only danger was the sand fly.
We're in Airlie Beach, the port town for sailing trips to the Whitsunday Islands -- beautiful white sand beaches and coral-reef snorkeling (we wore "stinger suits" -- full-body swimsuits to avoid deadly jellyfish stings). We took a 3-day trip aboard a catamaran with 22 bikini clad 20-somethings and a 2-man crew. The seas were a bit rough, which made me glad we were on a stable catamaran (as opposed to an unstable racing sailboat). It was heaven to be out on the sea for so long, being rocked to sleep under the stars, nothing to do but apply sunscreen, eat, and read (oh yeah, and take Dramamine).
The sailing was part of a package deal that included a self-drive 4x4 trip on Fraser Island, the world's largest sand island (a World Heritage Site). We spent Easter weekend there on the island, with a cast that could have been a Survivor episode. There were 11 of us from various western countries in one truck -- trying to reach consensus about where and when to go, how to drive the 3-ton beast, what to eat and how to cook it, etc. Alliances were made and broken. At one point I thought Erik and I would be voted off the island (the Irish folks were getting nervous about getting to the ferry, and we wanted to go on just one last hike).
The island is most well-known for the views at freshwater McKenzie Lake, where the "Blue Lagoon" and "The Beach" were filmed. Paradise, indeed. Except for the packs of wild dingoes (they will open your cooler if left unattended, and have been known to attack and eat children if left unattended). The island is also a tiger-shark breeding ground (thus no swimming on the beach).
My favorite part was swimming in the "champagne pools" -- two protected salt-water pools that form inside a volcanic rock arc at high tide. The waves crashed in and bubbled up like champagne.
Other highlights from our time in Oz:
-- mountain biking in the Blue Mountains with views of the "three sisters" rock formation in canyons older than the grand canyon
-- seeing the woman's 100-meter freestyle world record broken at the Australian swimming Olympic trials (at Sydney's Olympic Stadium)
-- wandering up the river, hunting for crystals in Nimbin, a hippie town. We slept in a caravan and woke to the pet cow chomping away at the grass. A grandmother tried to sell Erik crystal-meth.
-- surfing lessons in Byron Bay. Erik and I both managed to stand on the boards and surf! Boogey-boarding in Noosa Bay the following day.
Tonight we board a bus for our 23-hour return trip to Brisbane, where we fly to Manila, Phillipines the following day. We're looking forward to the culture shock and a stronger dollar.
Well, our time in the land down under is up. We've been making our way up the East Coast of Australia, hiking and snorkeling, boogey boarding and surfing without incident. Australia has 7 of the world's 9 deadliest spiders, myriad poisonous snakes, and killer jellyfish as well. Quite a contrast to New Zealand, where the only danger was the sand fly.
We're in Airlie Beach, the port town for sailing trips to the Whitsunday Islands -- beautiful white sand beaches and coral-reef snorkeling (we wore "stinger suits" -- full-body swimsuits to avoid deadly jellyfish stings). We took a 3-day trip aboard a catamaran with 22 bikini clad 20-somethings and a 2-man crew. The seas were a bit rough, which made me glad we were on a stable catamaran (as opposed to an unstable racing sailboat). It was heaven to be out on the sea for so long, being rocked to sleep under the stars, nothing to do but apply sunscreen, eat, and read (oh yeah, and take Dramamine).
The sailing was part of a package deal that included a self-drive 4x4 trip on Fraser Island, the world's largest sand island (a World Heritage Site). We spent Easter weekend there on the island, with a cast that could have been a Survivor episode. There were 11 of us from various western countries in one truck -- trying to reach consensus about where and when to go, how to drive the 3-ton beast, what to eat and how to cook it, etc. Alliances were made and broken. At one point I thought Erik and I would be voted off the island (the Irish folks were getting nervous about getting to the ferry, and we wanted to go on just one last hike).
The island is most well-known for the views at freshwater McKenzie Lake, where the "Blue Lagoon" and "The Beach" were filmed. Paradise, indeed. Except for the packs of wild dingoes (they will open your cooler if left unattended, and have been known to attack and eat children if left unattended). The island is also a tiger-shark breeding ground (thus no swimming on the beach).
My favorite part was swimming in the "champagne pools" -- two protected salt-water pools that form inside a volcanic rock arc at high tide. The waves crashed in and bubbled up like champagne.
Other highlights from our time in Oz:
-- mountain biking in the Blue Mountains with views of the "three sisters" rock formation in canyons older than the grand canyon
-- seeing the woman's 100-meter freestyle world record broken at the Australian swimming Olympic trials (at Sydney's Olympic Stadium)
-- wandering up the river, hunting for crystals in Nimbin, a hippie town. We slept in a caravan and woke to the pet cow chomping away at the grass. A grandmother tried to sell Erik crystal-meth.
-- surfing lessons in Byron Bay. Erik and I both managed to stand on the boards and surf! Boogey-boarding in Noosa Bay the following day.
Tonight we board a bus for our 23-hour return trip to Brisbane, where we fly to Manila, Phillipines the following day. We're looking forward to the culture shock and a stronger dollar.
